camino-9

This was one of my most powerful takeaways from my pilgrimage. At Gernika, I regretted that the Camino was becoming a race from one albergue to the next for me, and that I couldn’t connect more deeply with Basque culture.

Hundreds of artisanal food and drink traders were setting up market stalls to promote their products as I left the town in the morning. How I wanted to stay behind and soak up the experience! I got my wish shortly after: it started to rain and I had to decide whether to continue without waterproof hiking boots, or take a day off.

Choosing food and drink should have been an easy choice, but like any human, I had so many ‘shoulds’, ‘musts’ and other judgements in my head: it’s a pilgrimage and it’s not about comfort. The other pilgrims will think I’ve chickened out. 

The voice I should have been listening to was the one inside of me that was longing to explore Gernika and its history. I’m so glad I chose it in the end: it’s my Camino after all. Who cares what others think? Who cares if it doesn’t all go according to  my original plan? Wasn’t fulfilling my heart’s desire more important?

It turns out that this was the best place to learn autonomy and to listen to my own voice: Gernika is where the Basque elders formulated their historic laws centuries ago.

My day couldn’t have ended better: after lunch the skies cleared and I left the town in search of accommodation. The first albergue I came across was a farm in Pozueta run by a lovely family who gave me a wonderful taste of Basque hospitality.

So, who makes your decisions, chef? Your heart or the programming in your head?

Camino Day 5: Autonomy

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